A Guide to Matera & Altamura
Matera is one of the most breathtaking and historically rich destinations in Italy. Known for its ancient cave dwellings, the Sassi di Matera, this city offers an immersive experience like no other. Staying in a cave hotel allows you to step back in time, experiencing Matera as it once was - minus the hardship and with the addition of modern luxury. From wandering the stone-carved streets to indulging in Puglia’s rich culinary traditions, this guide covers everything you need to know about where to stay, eat, and what to do in Matera before heading to nearby Altamura for an unforgettable cheese experience.
A Brief History of Matera’s Caves
Matera is often referred to as the third-oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, with records dating back over 9,000 years. The Sassi district, a UNESCO World Heritage site, consists of thousands of cave dwellings carved into limestone cliffs. For centuries, these caves were home to families, churches, and entire communities. However, by the 1950s, Matera was considered a national embarrassment due to poor living conditions, leading to a mass relocation. Thankfully, in the last few decades, the city has undergone a revival, transforming the once-abandoned caves into stunning hotels, restaurants, and cultural hubs.
Where to Stay: Matera’s Best Cave Hotels
To truly experience Matera, you must stay in a cave hotel. These restored dwellings blend rustic charm with modern comforts, offering a unique stay unlike anywhere else in the world. Here are my top recommendations:
Luxury Cave Hotels
I Tre Portali Luxury Suites – A boutique cave hotel offering modern elegance in a historic setting with breathtaking views of Matera.
Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita – One of Matera’s most famous accommodations, featuring minimalist cave suites that preserve their original character.
Locanda San Martino Thermae – A cave hotel with a thermal spa, perfect for unwinding after exploring Matera’s winding streets.
Each of these hotels will allow you to wake up surrounded by history, while still enjoying top-tier comfort and hospitality.
Things to Do in Matera
Matera is a city that rewards slow exploration. Simply wandering through the Sassi and soaking in the atmosphere is an experience in itself, but here are some must-do activities:
1. Explore the Sassi di Matera
Walk through Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, the two main districts of Matera, and discover the intricate network of cave houses, rock-hewn churches, and hidden courtyards.
2. Visit Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario
A restored cave dwelling that provides a glimpse into how people lived in Matera before the mass evacuation in the 1950s.
3. Tour the Rock Churches
Matera is home to over 150 rupestrian (rock-cut) churches, many adorned with Byzantine frescoes. The most famous include:
Santa Maria de Idris (built into a rock formation with panoramic views)
San Pietro Barisano (with hidden crypts and frescoes)
Santa Lucia alle Malve (one of the oldest cave churches in Matera)
4. Walk to Belvedere Murgia Timone for the Best View of Matera
For an iconic panoramic view of Matera, take a hike or drive to Belvedere Murgia Timone on the opposite side of the ravine. This spot offers unobstructed views of the Sassi, especially stunning at sunrise and sunset.
5. Experience Matera by Night
The Sassi glow golden under soft lighting at night, making it one of the most magical sights in Italy. Stroll through the quiet stone streets and enjoy the beauty of Matera without the crowds.
Where to Eat in Matera
Matera’s food scene reflects the simple yet flavorful traditions of Basilicata and Puglia. Here are some of the best places to eat:
Baccanti – An elegant cave restaurant serving local specialties like orecchiette, slow-cooked lamb, and cave-aged cheeses.
Trattoria del Caveoso – A cozy spot known for home-style dishes and Matera bread, one of the most famous traditional loaves in Italy.
Ristorante Francesca – Perfect for a romantic dinner, offering refined Puglian and Lucanian cuisine inside a beautiful cave setting.
Pane & Pomodoro – A casual yet authentic eatery with incredible focaccia, cold cuts, and local cheeses.
Area 8 – A stylish cocktail bar with creative drinks and great aperitivo in the heart of the Sassi.
Altamura & Baby Dicecca: The Ultimate Cheese Experience
After exploring Matera, take a day trip to Altamura, a town known for its DOP-protected bread and artisanal cheeses. Here, you’ll experience something truly special - a cheese tour with my friend Vito and visit to Baby Dicecca, one of Puglia’s most authentic food experiences.
Vito Dicecca’s Cheese Tour & Baby Dicecca
If you’re a lover of food, history, and nature, this tour is a must-do.
Start at the Dicecca Dairy Farm in Altamura, where you’ll witness cheese production firsthand and taste freshly made cheeses carefully paired with local wines.
Walk through the heart of Altamura, visiting one of the oldest bakeries in town to sample the region’s famous Pane di Altamura.
Stop at the Monastery of Santa Chiara and visit the bakery opposite the church, where the traditional “tette delle monache” pastries were born.
Drive 13km into the Mercadante forest to reach Baby Dicecca, Vito’s cheese bar hidden in nature.
Enjoy a slow lunch under the trees, featuring a curated cheese-tasting menu with local delicacies and wine, surrounded by the sounds of the forest.
This tour is a perfect blend of tradition, culture, and culinary delight, making it one of the most authentic food experiences in Puglia.
Final Thoughts
Matera and Altamura are two of the most unique destinations in Puglia, offering a perfect combination of history, culture, and incredible food. Whether you’re sleeping in a cave, wandering the Sassi, indulging in homemade pastas, or tasting cheese under the stars in Altamura, this part of Italy will leave a lasting impression.
Want to experience this effortlessly? Join my Savour the Slow retreat, where I take care of all the logistics so you can simply enjoy the magic of Puglia.