A 12-Day Guide to Puglia: A Slow Travel Itinerary for Food & Culture Lovers
Puglia is a place that rewards those who embrace slow travel. It’s a region where life unfolds over long lunches, seaside strolls, and intimate connections with the land, the people, and the food. If you’re looking for an itinerary packed with tourist hotspots, this isn’t it. But if you want to explore Puglia in a way that feels meaningful, immersive, and delicious, you’re in the right place.
This 12-day itinerary takes you through some of Puglia’s most beautiful and lesser-known destinations, from cheese-making under the stars in Altamura to wandering Lecce’s golden-hued streets. You’ll swim in turquoise waters, stay in stunning Masserias, and eat some of the best food of your life. And if planning it all feels overwhelming, you can always join me on my Savour the Slow retreat, where I take care of everything - so all you have to do is show up and enjoy Puglia at its best.
Flying into Puglia
Puglia has two major airports: Bari (BRI) and Brindisi (BDS). For this itinerary, you’ll want to fly into Bari. It’s the region’s largest airport, offering better car rental options and a more central starting point for exploring both inland and coastal destinations. If you’re arriving from outside Europe, you’ll likely need to connect through Rome or Milan before flying into Bari.
Brindisi is another option, especially if you plan to focus more on the southern part of Puglia, but for this itinerary, Bari is the best choice.
Getting Around Puglia
To truly experience Puglia, renting a car is essential. Public transport here is limited, and the magic of the region lies in its countryside, small towns, and coastal roads—places you simply can’t reach by train or bus. I always hire my car from Noleggiare, and I’ve never had an issue. They have multiple locations, including Bari airport, and their booking process is straightforward.
A few tips for hiring a car in Puglia:
Book in advance – Prices rise in peak season, and availability can be limited.
Go for a smaller car – Many historic towns have narrow, winding streets, and parking can be tight.
Check your insurance coverage – Many rentals have high excess fees, so consider taking full coverage.
Fuel up before returning – Petrol stations near airports can be expensive; fill up in town before heading back.
Be mindful of ZTL zones – Many historic centers have restricted traffic areas (Zona a Traffico Limitato). Driving into these without permission can result in fines.
Don’t want to drive? My Savour the Slow retreat is designed so you don’t have to. I take care of all transportation, accommodations, and experiences, giving you the best of Puglia without the stress of logistics.
The 12-Day Puglia Itinerary
Days 1-2: Matera & Altamura – A Cheese Lover’s Dream
Your journey starts in Matera, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Instead of just passing through, I recommend staying in a cave hotel for a truly immersive experience.
Stay: A cave hotel in Matera (options include Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita or La Dimora di Metello)
Must-Do: Explore Matera’s ancient Sassi district, visit rock-hewn churches, and enjoy sunset at Crialoss Cafe or Zipa Cafe.
Day Trip to Altamura & Baby Dicecca Experience A short drive from Matera, Altamura is home to one of the most authentic food experiences in Puglia—Vito Dicecca’s cheese tour.
Start at Dicecca Dairy Farm, where you’ll witness cheese production firsthand and taste freshly made cheeses paired with local wines.
Walk through Altamura’s historic center, stopping at one of the oldest bakeries to try the legendary “tette delle monache” (or “Sospiri Pugliesi”).
Visit the Monastery of Santa Chiara, followed by a stop at a historic pastry shop to buy sweets to enjoy later.
Drive 13km to Baby Dicecca, located in the Mercadante forest, for a slow lunch surrounded by nature. This is an experience that blends tradition, culture, and culinary delight, making it one of the most special moments of your trip.
Days 3-6: Monopoli – Coastal Charm & Itria Valley Explorations
After two nights inland, it’s time to settle by the sea in Monopoli. A small fishing town with whitewashed streets, it’s a perfect base for exploring the coastline and nearby hilltop towns.
Stay: Casa Taralli (a dreamy B&B in the historic center)
Must-Do: Explore Monopoli’s Old Town, Lungomare, and beaches
Food Spots: Carlo Quinto (seafood), Trattoria La Locanda dei Mercanti, Salumeria Gustavo (for an epic panino)
Day Trips: Visit Martina Franca, Alberobello, Locorotondo, or skip the crowds and explore Grottaglie (ceramics town)
Beach Clubs: Calderisi Mare (luxury) or Lido Porto Ghiacciolo (budget-friendly)
Days 7-9: Masseria Stay & Exploring the Mid-Region
No trip to Puglia is complete without a stay in a Masseria—a traditional farmhouse turned boutique retreat. This is where you slow down, indulge in farm-to-table meals, and soak in the countryside.
Stay: Masseria Potenti (my favorite) or Lamacoppa/Masseria Moroseta
Must-Do: Spend slow mornings enjoying breakfast, explore the ceramics town of Grottaglie, and visit Ostuni for sunset & dinner
Food Stops: Forno 31 (best pistachio cornetto ever), Burro Cafe (incredible coffee)
Ionian Coast: Orange Sun Beach Club in Porto Cesareo (stunning, soft white sand)
[Read the full Masseria & Ostuni guide COMING SOON]
Days 10-12: Lecce & The Ionian Coast
Known as the Florence of the South, Lecce is filled with baroque beauty, a rich food scene, and plenty of places to slow down and enjoy Puglian life.
Stay: A boutique hotel in the historic center
Must-Do: People-watch with a pasticciotto at Cafe Alvino
Food Spots: Book ahead for Trattoria Le Zie (classic Lecce home cooking)
Swimming Spots:
Adriatic Coast: Grotta Zinzulusa, Cala dell’Acquaviva, Il Ciolo, Cave of Poetry
[Read the full Lecce & Beach Clubs guide COMING SOON]
Bonus Guide: Grottaglie – Puglia’s Ceramics Capital
If you love artisanal ceramics, make time for Grottaglie. It’s filled with handmade pottery studios, family-run workshops, and hidden galleries where you can find one-of-a-kind pieces.
[Read the full Grottaglie guide COMING SOON]
Final Thoughts: A Puglia Experience Tailored to You
This 10-day itinerary is built for travelers who want to experience Puglia beyond the tourist trail—with an emphasis on connection, food, and slowing down. Whether you rent a car and explore on your own or join my Savour the Slow retreat for a fully curated experience, Puglia has something unforgettable waiting for you.
So, are you ready to explore Italy’s most soulful region? ✨